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MANUFACTURE OF-BOOTS AND SHOE$. No. 374,029. PatentedNov. 29, 1887.

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MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND QHOES No. 374,029. I Patented Nov. 29', 14887.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ANDREW G. \VOOD, OFPHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, AND CHARLES S. BROWN, OF CAMDEN, NEW JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 374,029, dated November 29, 1887.

Application filed May :28, 18.7.

To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that we, ANDREW G. Wool), of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, and CHARLES S. BROWN, of Camden, Camden county, New Jersey, and both citizens of the United States, have invented certain Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots or Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

The object of our invention is to make a boot or shoe which is sewed right side out with a flexible sole free from tacks or pegs under the wearers foot.

Boots and shoes have heretofore been sewed right side out by various methods; but mostof them are objectionable on the ground that they produce a more or less stiff sole, which is undesirable in some classes of boots and shoes, more particularly for the use of ladies and children.

In Blakespatentof May 16, 1865, No. 47,696, is described a method of making a shoe sewed right side out by using a temporary insole to hold the edges of the upper until the sole is applied thereto; but the securing-tacks are left in the vamp or upper (unless torn out by accident) when the insole is removed, and are then clinched or embedded into the inner surface of the shoe-sole, and so are left ina position to be under the wearers foot. By our method of making theshoe we not only dispense with a permanent insole and make the sole as flexible as the sole of an ordinary turned shoe, but we also free the sole from tacks or pegs under the wearer s foot.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective view illustrating one of the first stepsin carryingoutour new methodin making boots or shoes. Figs. 2 and 3 are sectional views illustrating the same step in the manufacture carried out in two Ways. Fig. 4 is a perspective view illustrating a succeeding step in the carrying out of our invention. Figs. 5 and 6 are perspective views illustrating in two different forms another succeeding step in our method. Fig. 7 is a sectional plan view showing the inside of one of our shoes at one stage of manufacture; and Figs. 8 and 9 are vertical sectional views of the boot or shoe, illustrating one of the'final steps in our method.

In carrying out our invention we make use of a temporary insole, which serves the two- Serial No.239,609. (No model.)

fold purpose of temporarily holding the bottom edges of the upper in position while the sole is being secured thereto and also of afterward extracting the tacks which have been used to secure the edges of the upper to the said temporary insole, and which tacks we make headless. By this means we produce an unturned sewed boot or shoe having no permanent insole and with a flexible sole free from tacks under the wearers foot.

As illustrated in Fig. 1, we secure the bottom edges, a a, of the upper A to the temporary insole B by means of headless tacks I). These tacks may be simple headless tacks in the first place, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 3,

or, if they are headed tacks, when driven in the heads should be clipped off after the tacks have been driven, so that they then become headless tacks. The points of the tacks, being 7c driven onto the metal last on which the upper is held, clinch themselves on the inside of the temporary insole B, as illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3.

The temporary insoleB may extend throughout the length of the shoefrom toe to the heel, as illustrated in Fig. 2, or it may be used in connection with a permanent shank-piece, D, as illustrated in Fig. 3, in which case the temporary insole B extends from the toe only to about the end of the shank piece D, and slightly overlapping it. The edges or of the upper having been thus secured i n position by means of this temporary insole and headless tacks, we place thereon the'sole E, as illustrated in Fig. 4, and secure the sole to the upper temporarily and prior to sewing by suitable means, such as cement, or by means of nails or tacks. NVe prefer the latter method, driving the securing-nails in at suitable intervals, as seen in Fig. 4, and as may be found necessary around the edge of the sole, preferably just within the l-ine of the channel f. Where the shank-piece D is used, these securing-nails e are needed only around the sole part, the heel part of the sole being secured to the edges of the upper and to the shank-piece by permanent nails or tacks e. The 'shoe is then ready to be put on the sewing-machine to sew the sole to the upper. \Vhere the [O0 shank-piece D is used and the heel part of the sole is secured by tacks e, the sewing is terlninated at the ends of the channels, as illus trated in Fig. 5. \Vhcre no shank-piece is used, but the temporary insole B extends from the toe to the heel of the shoe, we prefer, in some classes of shoes, to sew all around, as illustrated in Fig. 6.

As illustrated in Fig. 7, the temporary insole B is somewhat less in width and length than the inside floor of the shoe, so that the line of stitching will be just outside of the margin of the temporary insole. In other words, the temporary insole should not be sewed to the sole or upper. \Vherc the shankpiece is used the sewing may be through the shank-piece, and preferably is made so. The sole having been thus secured to the upper, with or without the addition of nails or tacks e, the temporary insole B is now pulled out of the shoe ,and at the same time and by that means the tacks b, by which the edges of the upper were originally secured to the temporary insole, and thereby held in place, are all withdrawn from the inside of the shoe, as illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9, since those tacks are headless tacks and have been clinched on the inside of that ten'iporaryinsole. (See also Fig. 3.)

In some cases, if preferred, and particularly where cement is used instead of the nails 0 to temporarily secure the sole to the upper, the temporary insole B, with its attached headless securing-tacks, may be withdrawn from the inside of the shoe before the latter is trans ferred to the sewing-machine. The shoe thus made in accordance with our invention may then be finished in any ordinary way by the application of a heel and the insertion of a suitable thin lining for the floor of the shoe.

lVhere the shank-piece D is used, the floor of the shoe may he evened by the insertion of a thin half-insole in front of said shank-piece before the lining is put in.

It will be evident that in ashoe constructed in accordance with our invention, as above described, not only is a permanent insole dispensed with, but the shoe will also have a flexible sole free from tacks under the wearers foot.

The sole,- if desired, may be made thicker than, the insoled shoe without seriously detractin g from its flexibility and yet increasing its wearing qualities.

Ve claim as our invention- 1. The mode herein described of making boots or shoes, said mode consisting in first securing the edges of the upper to a temporary insole with headless tacks, clinching those tacks to the insole, then securing the sole to the upper, and finally drawing all the said headless tacks by withdrawing the temporary insole from the inside of the boot or shoe, all substantially as set forth.

2. The mode herein described of making boots or shoes, said mode consisting in first securing the edges of the upper to a temporary insole and a shank-piece by headless tacks, clinching the tacks to the insole, afterward securing the sole to theupper and shank-piece, and finally removing the said tacks by with drawing the temporary insole from the inside of the boot or shoe, all substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ANDREW G. XVOOD. CHARLES S. BROWN. \Vitnesses:

WILLIAM D. CONNER, HARRY SMITH. 

